You should go to the section of this forum and ask how to get the programming software for your aids. I believe it is Target 6.1 or something like that. With the software only you may be able to run it in simulation mode to see what features can be adjusted and set in your aids, but will not be able to actually make any changes. To do that you need some hardware to connect to the aids, that costs about $200 US. Ask about that as well in the DIY. Keep in mind that you will be making adjustments somewhat blind, as you will not be able to do a real ear measurement to see what effect the adjustments have had. However, for minor adjustments considering the distance you have to drive, it can make some sense…
I currently use a Plantronics Voyager 5200 headset for calls on my Pixel 2 XL. Will I be able to have both the aids and headset paired and choose which one to use by pressing the answer button on either one? If so, is it possible to switch from one to the other mid-call?
It sounds like you are talking about having two Bluetooth devices connected at one time to your phone (not just paired). I don’t think your phone offers that but I’m not an expert on that phone.
I was pairing my KS9s with my laptop via bluetooth for a week or so, but find that the sound breaks up after awhile and also that it causes me to burn through batteries like crazy. I am considering getting another TV Streamer for $99. In the meantime, I bought a nice little Toslink switcher for the Streamer I have, but haven’t begun playing with it yet. Not sure how long a Toslink extension cable can be before sound is degraded.
I did find this: “Toslink cables intended for consumer-level use contain plastic optical fibres. This makes them robust, flexible and great for lengths up to 15 metres - provided that the source device has a strong enough output.”
Some cables can run twenty metres. Some top out at five. In this article, we examine the limitations on a variety of common formats, and what the pitfalls are to breaking through the length limit barrier.
I use a Toslink I got from Amazon to switch between my ROKU and My Cable TV - It is a three-channel unit and I have one spare-Not sure about the distance of the ext cable you mentioned b4 a degrade starts. I have a adapter that I had used for my BT headset to the TV but it does not pair with my KS 9 – Looks like I am going to have to get the TV $99 unit–I wonder if there is an option they tun on when you get the TV BT or does it just show up on the easy line remote–Thanks for your help
I’ve read extensively on TOSLINK and I think the “15 metres” length is actually more typically “15 feet” for plastic TOSLINK cables. TOSLINK is NOT fiber optic cable specs and construction. It was invented by Toshiba (hence the name) as a cheaper, sturdier (but not too sturdy) alternative to expensive, fragile fiber optic GLASS cable (although there are glass-based TOSLINK cables).
The Wikipedia article on TOSLINK nicely summarizes the properties, including transmission distance without reinforcement:
TOSLINK (Toshiba Link) is a standardized optical fiber connector system. Generically known as optical audio, the most common use of the TOSLINK optical fiber connector is in consumer audio equipment in which the digital optical socket carries (transmits) a stream of digital audio signals from audio equipment (CD player, DVD player, Digital Audio Tape recorder, computer, video game console) to an AV receiver that can decode two channels of uncompressed, pulse-code modulated (PCM) audio; o Althou...
But in the post that I cite (after the Edit_Update), I mention that I had an unnecessarily long cable (at least 10 or 12 feet) that I had put some tight bends into). After I “straightened it out” by putting the excess cable length into some big circular loops, I got much better audio output on my amplifier system. But I also inserted a powered TOSLINK splitter into the circuit, too. Powered splitters serve as repeaters, boosting signal strength (although Haggis in the thread points out digital transmission is often all or none). There’s a link in the post I reference to a very expansive website on digital audio: PCM Audio in Stereo and Home Theater
Unfortunately you can’t see the KS9 in the menus in the target software until a KS9 is detected. You might be able if someone exported a client that has a ks9? If it is possible to alter the serial numbers I may be able to do that if someone wants…
Can you use the software in simulation mode by picking the closest Marvel M90 model? That is what I do when using the Connexx software for my KS8’s. When I go to the fitter at Costco it looks identical to what I see on her screen. You just have to keep in mind what features your has compared to the software. It is the same deal as the KS9. There is no KS model to choose from in the menu. It gets self detected when you connect.
Thank you very much, Jim for your very detailed and helpful reply, and included links, which bears some study by me before going further. I appreciate it.
TV $99 unit–I wonder if there is an option they tun on when you get the TV BT
As long as you have performed the original setup between your KS9s and the TV Streamer, and keep the unit plugged in and “on” the Airstream connection re-starts everytime you turn on your TV. https://ks9userportal.com/media/#modal-1614
I saw the Costco tech yesterday for second visit and mentioned that I hear male voices better than female in classrooms and he adjust frequencies but also gave me a directional program that he said is good in classrooms and changes direction for speech source when people ask questions. The other program added was speech understanding in loud noise. I haven’t been in either situation since appointment… but forgot to mention that road noises are really loud when driving and trying to hear radio in car… not streaming… Does anyone use anything special for that situation… I can raise the radio volume of course but was curious if there is a good setting for that. He did recommend staying in automatic most of time so I can adjust to it… Also he lowered the background noises in automatic… Is there a reason that people would want the background noises to not be softened aside from more severe hearing loss.
IQBud Boost are on sale for $299 (40 % off) thru Oct 31! You can return them if they do not do what you need - but they are well worth trying if you are trying out Costco hearing aids. Their app really is great and will help you understand what you need in a hearing aid. The only issue I have with the IQBud Boost is there is not a volume control for listening to people one on one. You can adjust the volume if you are using the iPhone for calls (also the TV Streamer) but the volume for listening to other people is set when you program them to your ears. If you do not have low freq or high freq drop off (your hearing loss is mostly constant versus frequency) they might be perfect for your needs. They are good to have to support the use of your real hearing aids. They are the only “hearables” on the market that provide some frequency equalization. Earbuds such as ibuds do not have mics to pick up speech and the BOSE HearPhones do not have frequency equalization - but they are magic if you have flat hearing loss.
I am in the trial period for the KS8 and have been considering the KS9. I decided to stick with the KS8, as they sound pretty great in comparison to my KS6. But then the left aid broke and needed to be sent in. I started with hearing aids by trialing the KS4, which was a Rexton product, and had to have two receivers and one aid replaced during the 90 day trial period, and that bothered me and I took them back and spent the extra grand for the Resound Futura. So, I’m not tolerant of any Rexton reliability issues, and one failure of the KS8 was enough for me to bag it and move on to the KS9. I have had the KS9 for a few days now and want to give a report for KS8 users who are considering the KS9.
My hearing loss follows the normal, age-related sort of curve, getting down about 80 at the higher frequency with very little loss at the low frequencies. I had open domes with the KS8, and things were fine. The KS9 feedback test showed that I should use the little black, bullet-shaped vented dome, rather than the open dome. I agreed to try them, in spite of my misgivings about occlusion. Surprisingly, I can hardly tell any difference between these domes and open domes, and the feedback test was much better this way.
I had decided ahead of time that I wanted to have Car, Loud Noise, and Music as my manual programs. The fitter, who actually wears the KS9, recommended no manual programs. He feels that the aids generally do a better job of automatically selecting the correct program than the wearer can, so it is best to just leave everything automatic and make individual adjustments as needed to any program that isn’t quite right for the wearer. I went with his recommendation. So far, so good. I can always add manual programs if needed.
I had the test. The fitter set the aids to the REM test results, and I have to say that the sound is good without any adjustments so far. My experience in all the different environments is limited so far, but overall I would say that the KS9 gives me better sound than the KS8, which was great in comparison with my KS6. So, I am happy. My voice doesn’t sound as good as with the KS8 - slushy in comparison. I’m getting used to this, but the KS8 was better.
App: It sucks in comparison with the KS8. I don’t see ever using it, actually. And I really didn’t use the KS8 app much, so not a big deal for me. If Automatic works as advertised, and if I have volume control on the aids, I don’t even want to mess with an app.
Connectivity: I have two iPads and an Apple Watch with cellular and an iPhone. With the KS8 I had MFI, which would allow connections to all. You get exactly one connection with the KS9 - Bluetooth. I thought that one connection would be bad. I bought two cheap sets of AirPod type wireless buds, one for each iPad. $25 a pair, and they work great. I actually like this better than MFI. I don’t need a hearing aid to hear well, so long as the sound is playing directly into my ears.
I want to use the hearing aid Bluetooth channel for phone calls with the Apple Watch. The connection between the two works, but isn’t reliable so far - I get disconnects. I have to work to see if this can be made reliable. If I can’t get this to work right I am going to be unhappy, as I think that the hands-free hearing aid connection is a great idea.
I bought a TV connector with the $100 that I saved. There are some TV programs where I had trouble with the KS8, so I am going to give the steamer a try with the KS9. Haven’t received it yet.
I bought two cheap sets of AirPod type wireless buds, one for each iPad. $25 a pair, and they work great.
Do Airpod-types fit on top of your KS9s or do you have to pull them out to insert them? If they fit on top, could you please supply a link to the $25 ones you bought? Thanks.
I too have an iPhone and an Apple watch. I’ve found that I keep my ’s connected to my phone and use my watch to see who is calling. Also, when streaming music or podcasts, the watch can advance or pause the stream.
I purchased the TV Connector from Costco and it is really cool. The only thing that takes getting used to is that while you are listening to TV, it takes a few seconds to turn the TV connection off (by pressing one of the buttons on the HA’s). When my wife is trying to say something while the TV is on, I frequently miss it and have to shut off the signal, listen to her, then turn it back on.
