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I found that the filter itself, actually constricts the sound port more than I realized. May measure the filter… but I actually measured the depth of the port, till the stop on what I assumed is the speaker grill. That is a whopping 11mm. My mold itself from external surface to now open speaker port is just about double at about 21.5mm
Could you provide photos of your mold from different angles? I think I imagined a quite different form factor.
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Unfortunately I don’t believe for one moment that the is a sound filter, but I’m more then happy you now have unlimited sound to your environment.
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I understand your apprehension.
Possibly the filter itself - the mesh or cross pattern, is not the affect,
but rather the filter RING which has to substantially constrict the tube width.
Don’t know exactly why, and again the reason I am removing the filters is not for better audio performance. It is to prevent the filter from getting choked, way before the path itself will become blocked. I have found that in the field it is far easier to clean a clog, with in the mold, than deal with the filter.
Firstly, I can clean the mold with some fiber, flexible, improvised rod like probe, even the Qtip stick sans cotton. or as I said, the green dental pics I use.
The problem with the filter themselves, is that
1] need to have the filter
2] need to find the filter
3] these filter ring, seem to have threads that the filter pic engages with…
so good to have the filter ring removal tool
4] unlike other filters ( on old oticon ), these filters are recessed I think, impossible to grab them with finger nail.
5] Need a better place ( flat, clean, lit, indoor non windy etc).
I strongly recommend anyone who relies on their hearing aids to function at work or just to function, carry an extra set of speakers - or at minimal, if having updated from prior speakers, their old ones and be able to pull off and put on the speaker when the unexpected might occur.
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Just for clarification, because I am a bit puzzled. Have you ever used it below?
Cerustop Wax Guards | Hearing Aid Wax Guards7
Cerustop hearing aid help protect your heading aid from moisture and wax which can affect sound quality and damage the battery of your device
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sure. thats what i had used, before I stopped.
I probably have 30 of them little packets, till I stopped the provider from giving them to me.
think I dumped most.
BUT I reviewed your Phonak link and found it VERY INTERESTING. THANK YOU B !
Never knew, or realized there was an HF3 and HF4.
Are they for different molds ? Or different filters for most molds.
Also, I loved that diagram on page 10, showing the length of impression, and the six options for how deep the mold is?
I had requested a LONG one. The dealer wrote that in the order.
No clue to what I got, but now I know for when I get the spares, to discuss this and delve deeper.
I wanted LONG because of my work in loud noise and the deeper the mold I figure would not only offer more gain, and less signal loss/distortion, but also would muffle the environmental sound more, and figured the vent would prevent ear choking!
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These are cShells with small (0.8 mm?) vents. I wonder what the feedback threshold looks like in the Target software. Do these vents allow for the full potential of UP without feedback?
A year ago, I had a temporary earmold that was fully closed. A small vent was drilled by audi into it. This was a very temporary solution because drilling the hole led to the same space where the receiver was located. It was made of transparent, colorless acrylic, but despite that, it was quite easy to break delicate structures (e.g., cables) by inserting cleaning tools like rods.
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Never ever experienced feedback.
But never overtuned these.
The threshold shows as around 70 at 1K, and drops to low point of 50 at 4K
of 133 at 1k, and 100 at 4K
I don’t blast if possible. I have what I consider a low of about 90/95 (r/l)
Since I ordered these online… and am pretty much self fit, though did compare to a local ’s crude fit, and had a and gram at Costco when trying the Philips so anyway, I am not sure that these molds are ideal. This is the weak link. I did a lot of research on the instruments, but nothing on the molds… only spoke to the dealer on phone and in texts…
Don’t know if there are better options…
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This filter theoretically improves frequency response from UP receiver (compared to UP receiver from SDS 4.0/5.0), adding some higher frequencies.
It seems that if you have a UP receiver, you already had an HF4 filter.
I had requested a LONG one. The dealer wrote that in the order.
No clue to what I got, but now I know for when I get the spares, to discuss this and delve deeper.
I wanted LONG because of my work in loud noise and the deeper the mold I figure would not only offer more gain, and less signal loss/distortion, but also would muffle the environmental sound more, and figured the vent would prevent ear choking!
I sympathise. On Tuesday I took titanium cShell. I also wanted long one, but received short. Wanted pressure vent, received AOV. Wanted SDS 5.0 for Paradise (with purpose to testa and then order another one for Sphere) - I got SDS 6.0 for Sphere.
In your case it could be difficult to have longer molds. It’s because:
UP receiver is huge ang could not fit in the part of ear canal closer to the eardrum.
Small vent also requires additional space - maybe you should have no vent?
Acrylic walls requires to be 1mm thick (multiplied ×2, so 2mm). They can be thinner, probably 0.8mm but then much less robust. The solution is titanium - then walls can be much thinner.
I recommend about sizing:
Earmold Acoustics, Size Does Matter! | 33947 | Earmolds and Ear Course 339479
This course intends to explain acoustical challenges due to size restrictions and guide for configuring earmold for desired acoustical gain. Size of the ear canal will determine hearing aid type as well as earmold acoustic configuration.
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Awesome recommendation! Will take that tomorrow. Titanium? Are they forever molds?
Are speakers all metal and fixed or removable?
Just wondering if the cleaning a non filter user might do would lead to speaker - shell separation ?
How do they feel?
My molds are extremely smooth and unlike with the power domes - now I have no need for the oil.
Anyway now I understand why the filters and holder/tool seems more robust than the basic. Still prefer none!
Sorry about your own mold order - is that due to non compatibility or location or mistake?
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Titanium? Are they forever molds?
The housing - probably yes, assuming the ear canal does not change with age. The receiver, especially if you remove the filter - no. Keep in mind that you may have 0.3 mm (x2 = 0.6 mm) of cShell walls instead of 2 mm - so in some patients there may be little benefit.
Are speakers all metal and fixed or removable?
No, more like a normal receiver and removable as in all cShells - when you send them back to the manufacturer.
Just wondering if the cleaning a non filter user might do would lead to speaker - shell separation ?
I don’t know.
How do they feel?
My molds are extremely smooth and unlike with the power domes - now I have no need for the oil.
I chose the rough surface. It is difficult to insert, but I have to admit that it holds the cShell in place well. However, I’d prefer a deeper earmold with a smooth surface, which would be held in place by its placement and length. And I’d prefer no AOV, because the feedback threshold is too low between 2-4 kHz!
Anyway now I understand why the filters and holder/tool seems more robust than the basic. Still prefer none!
We have the freedom, you can do what you want. However, I still think you’re a bit overcomplicate things. The earmolds “life expectancy” would be longer if we don’t try to manipulate with the recaivers, yanking them, etc. No offence, my 3 cents only.
My temporary cShell skeleton earmold with the result of the brush manipulation in the ear canal during wax removal. Note the shiny gold/copper wire that has been pushed through the outer bore of the vent. The earmold was not intended to have a vent in the first place, but it was drilled because I didn’t know at the time that muffled sound in closed molds was caused by improper gain adjustment:
Sorry about your own mold order - is that due to non compatibility or location or mistake?
I don’t know. They sent the wrong form for SDS 6.0, but it said that it was for Paradise. When I realised that, a few days later, I brought the properly filled in form with a note written in red pen that I wanted SDS 5.0 for Paradise.
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MPO of 133 at 1k, and 100 at 4K
I don’t blast if possible. I have what I consider a low UCL of about 90/95 (r/l)
Quite a large . I don’t know how to interpret sentence “I don’t blast…”, while you have this 133 .
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HaHa!
Well, I am not into metal or heavy rock.
I am into classical, ballads, folk, opera.
High powered speakers, will distort less and generally perform better than cheaper units. I did not need 133dB speakers - didn’t know if they make a110-125etc.
Thanks for the X-Ray insights to the mold wiring. Wonder how similar they are to mine?
Once again… my removal of the filters should not be considered overthinking and certainly not overworking. So many times in the middle of something, suddenly one just stopped working.
You would think it was a fractured wire, or a board, or even a battery, or chip. Amazingly it wasn’t it was the filter. Its like one minute it was working, but (not so obviously unwell), and the next minute just DEAD!
I never had that sudden death experience with the molds SANS filters. Firstly they gum up far less quickly, as the port and the depth are greater. Secondly - just making time to clean them like ever month or so… I build things of all sorts. I will build a hanger or something to submerge and hold these new molds at the right height to gently soak. Possibly two of my tiny bottles will work - I stock them in two sizes 3CC and 15CC, bet I can fill them to the top and just hang my molds on the bottles… may need to create a taped platform to balance them.
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What’s that wire, it looks exposed?
Yes, there is a shiny one coming out through a hole and another shiny one inside the earmold. The plastic insulated wire is rather OK.
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Once again… my removal of the filters should not be considered overthinking and certainly not overworking. So many times in the middle of something, suddenly one HA just stopped working.
You would think it was a fractured wire, or a board, or even a battery, or chip. Amazingly it wasn’t it was the filter. Its like one minute it was working, but (not so obviously unwell), and the next minute just DEAD!
Okay, I’m not going to force you. Do what you want. But if humidity is a problem, what about a dryer like e.g. Redux?
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On the 2nd page of the Phonak Custom Mold order form,
On the lower left column under
WAX GUARDS
Is this chart
Does that mean there is a BEHIND the mold before the speaker,
OR that one could order the mold without provision to hold a filter on the front.
OR does it simply mean not to have the filter supplied installed on the mold tip?
cShell Acrylic Description
X No wax guard
CB CeruStop
H4 HF4 Filter, default with UP receivers
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