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How to replace battery in Phonak Audeo M-50R

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I did it in a similar way:
Only not with fingernails, but with a thin metal tab.
When levering between the front housing and the circuit board, it made a soft cracking noise. But nothing seems to be broken.

Phonak Audeo Marvel both sides opened

I used a clockmaker’s screwdriver to keep the tabs raised. The clack sounds I heard were the tabs clicking back over their pins. (I removed the cover to clean out the gunk from the mic holes.)

I originally came to this thread because my Phonak B-70R showed no life when removed from the charger, although it the green light was showing while charging. I suspected the battery needed replacing.
However, people talking about their old batteries not lasting as long as they did made me think there might be another issue.
What I found was that if the hearing aid is not responding to being turned on, it can be reset with a process of 1. A long press (30 seconds) on the hearing aid, then return to the charger for 1 minute. This worked for me, it might be worth a try before changing a battery. This is the YouTube that explains https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8-1QFrWt0g174

Some news…

One of the that I repaired stopped working…after I forgot to remove it for the shower!!! The battery is still at 3.7v and charging normally. It seems that the microphones didn’t like that… Ok another project.

I bought (on Ebay) a used Phonak P90 which stopped charging for 100$ us. I successfully changed the battery and it is now back to life again. It was a lot easyer and faster. Very happy about that.

It would be very intereresting to know if someone else tryed it and how it worked.

Hello

I’ve tried to get my internal battery replaced but cannot - purchased my Phonak Audeo from a dealer in India, received new in package aids. The dealer added an extra year warranty on top of the two year warranty. Problem is Phonak USA won’t touch aids purchased from India. I’ve tried to work w India Sonova to get the battery replaced. They won’t honor the warranty - so I’d pay but can’t ship lithium ion batteries. Do you know anyone who can replace the battery? It’s just now hit the two year warranty. I’ve been trying to get this repaired as I need the aid as I can’t hear well at all without aids. It’s been a bit of a nightmare to get this done. Any suggestions ? Thank you

@NH64 said:

Problem is Phonak USA won’t touch aids purchased from India

Really that’s unacceptable, they should offer out of warranty repair?
But regardless it’s a real pain for unfortunately as well, don’t Lloyds do repairs, you might be lucky.

Hearing Aid Repair Labs | Hearing Aid Repair Center24

Hearing Aids have been sold by Lloyds Hearing Aids for over 40 years, with the best prices on all hearing aids, digital hearing aids, hearing aid batteries, and hearing aid accessories.

Edited

001 Leitungen an Akku P90 20240924_181356
Cables clamped to battery P90
White direct at P90-battery Minus.
Dark direct at P90-battery Plus.

002 3 Eneloop Zellen an P90 Akku 20240924_181745
3 Eneloop cells (3.91 V) directly to P90 battery

003 P90 Akku-Spannung nach einigen Minuten an den Eleloops 20240924_181220 x
P90 Battery voltage after a few minutes in parallel at the Eleloops

I also have a red LED when charging the Phonak Audeo P90.
The battery voltage of the P90 showed 2.90 V at the start of my measurement.
Although the P90 showed a charge of 3.84 V a few minutes after connecting 3 Eneloop batteries in parallel, I cannot switch on the P90.

Now i connect 4 (instead of 3) Eneloop batteries in series (5.20 V).
It is possible that the P90 battery will then be destroyed.

Edited

After a few minutes, the P90 battery (alone) showed 4.2 V.
P90 still cannot be switched on.
After inserting it into the original charger, the old error pattern appears:
Solid green for a few seconds, then solid red.

What else I can give as information for everyone:
If the P90s are charged in the charger, they are also recognised by Phonak Target and can be connected.
Sound comes from receiver if switched on. This means that the mainboard does not appear to be faulty.

Without the charger (despite P90 voltage above 4 V), the devices are not recognised in Target and will not start.
Switching off/on does not work for recognition in Target.

Why did I perform these tests?

The Eneloops connected in parallel to the P90 battery should have the same effect as a new battery in the P90 = voltage at the battery 3.9-4.5 V.
As the P90 still cannot be switched on using the buttons, I can save myself the trouble of buying a new battery (at least in my opinion).
It probably wouldn’t work with a new battery either.

Yeah seems like you’ve done enough to try and kick start it into life, time to let Phonak try or replace new or used from eBay.

@sterei said:

If you can connect to target: can you run the device test in target? It might give you some information. Next step you could try to make a factory reset.

Factory reset i have done more than 1 time since it is dead.
Device test works, but shows only informations and numbers, that brings me no worthfull input.

Thanks for all the great information here everyone!

I’m still awaiting the batteries in the mail. I plan to use the conductive glue to attach the wires.
I’ve gotten to this point so far.

For those interested, I used a fine-tip soldering iron to carefully remove the covers from the battery compartment. It worked very well as I was able to stay well clear of the tiny wire attached. Then i was able to work in a more precise way to separate the cover from the wire section. Smooth so far.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/znftUDG1ybj1AM2h655

Battery 3
Battery 2
Battery 1

I’m in the process of repairing an M50. Fun job!

Opening the case was quite straightforward, removing the battery covers not so much. The wires are soldered and glued to the PCB, and are glued in the casing of the battery. Now I’m wondering what would be the best way to remove both top sides of the covers. Knife? Dremel? Soldering iron?

17628041064187575464145619990740

I used a small knife and heated the blade with a propane torch. It is also important to keep the solidly held on a support. I removed the end of the small wire from the battery with the knife. When reassembling, don’t forget to scratch the enamel on the wire to establish a good electrical contact with the new battery

As it turns out the cover can quite easily be cut with a knife. I avoided the part where the wire was glued in thecover, need abit more magnification for that.

IMG_20251112_152059454_HDR

Hi Friends! I’m in the process of taking my ks10 apart which i believe is the same model, and have some questions about the battery. i’ve read too much ai slop on batteries and am having trouble figuring out some things:

  1. I’m taking mine apart to get to the battery to replace it and I’m trying to understand which wire i should remove from the battery first for safety reasons.
  2. the wires on the are red and green, but the wires on the battery i ordered are black and red. should i connect red to red and black to green? and what order should this be done in for safety?

battery i ordered:

image

ty <3

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