Do I need custom molds by your estimation?

I don’t know either (the default can be changed). It is not the default with Signia or Widex.
I asked my audiologist about it (SoundRecover), and she said I didn’t need it. Then I asked, “Why are you setting me up with it?” She looked confused and removed it at my request. Like MDB, I lost confidence in that audiologist.

@Blue_Pearl1 When you get one of the newer Smart(er)TVs, you may need someone in your family that is savy in hooking things up. If no soundbar or sound system is involved it should be quite simple to add a Resound TV Streamer (assuming you are both using Jabra hearing aids).

And based on your audiogram, you may not even need the TV streamer with good hearing aids. However, while I’ve found significant improvements in TV picture quality over the last decade, the speaker/sound quality has actually gotten worse.

Not that I’m an expert, but modern TVs mostly use HDMI cables to connect to some device for the TV signal - be it rabbit ears, a cable box, Apple box, or whatever. The Resound Streamers do not an use an HDMI connection for some reason. Instead they use the Optical Out connection on the back side of most TVs (preferred), Or the older style RCA cables such as we used to use for headphones.

@Raudrive said:

With your audiogram I wouldn’t be using frequency lowering. It’s great when those upper frequencies are nonresponse.

Since using it with L70 UPs, I’m hearing s-sh much better. That, according to the speech banana, coincides with the poor performance of these aids at 6k. My L90 SPs give better netter response at 6k, so I have it switched off:

Costco will make (and remake) molds for you and refund the cost if you don’t like them. IIRC, you have 30 days to decide, but I could easily be wrong on that. My experience is that molds DO slip out of my ears unless they have some sort of assistance. The slippage stopped when I got molds with ‘canal locks’.

If your TV has analog audio out (and it probably does) or OPT(ical) Out, it will work with the TV Streamer II or +. You won’t need a new TV.

Check your TV setup (and the setup of any new TV you consider) to make sure the TV can do Optical out and internal speakers simultaneously, if you have HAs and live with someone who doesn’t. If your partner wants better sound than the internal speakers provide, getting sound for both/all of you is more complex.

@Raudrive said:

That’s interesting. Receiver performance.

Have you tried RIC aids? They sure might be great for you.

I have a pair of Phonak P90s with M receivers. They are well within the parameters of my hearing loss. They were professionally programmed in the UK, without REM (which is common here). He provided Slimtips, and did his magic. The difference in speech recognition was astounding, from our NHS Marvels, which were poorly programmed.

I’ve self programmed since then. I use the same Target processes for all the hearing aids I’ve picked up off here, or Ebay. I also have Bolero Marvels and SP Marvels.

I have 2 pairs of identical slimtips, and 3 pairs of identical deep custom mo(u)lds with 3mm vents done with a bite block. I believe I have wide ear canals too, as the deep mo(u)lds will take thick tubes and 3mm vents.

In my latest tests, I see the P90s with M RIC receivers as third after both Lumitys (SP and UP). The Marvels still work well, and the differences a subtle.

I do wonder if I bought P or SP receivers for the Audeo P90s, they might give me the power I’m after?

It’s interesting stuff. I’ve noticed the Audeo P90s promise higher MPOs in those higher frequencies, but feedback management takes loads away (on Target screenshots). This may be because of the Slimtips which have 1.9mm vents.

Conclusion: I believe, because of my wide ear canals, I need higher power aids/receivers than most. I’m lucky that I don’t suffer occlusion with any. I may buy some higher power receivers for my Audeo P90s

@PeterH said:

: I believe, because of my wide ear canals, I need higher power aids/receivers than most. I’m lucky that I don’t suffer occlusion with any.

My understanding is this is the wrong way to think about power versus molds and domes, acoustics. I was taught by a member us self programmers tend to underfit the aids. Mm

Have you tried silicone molds or something a little more sealing than slim tops? Canal locks or skeleton molds. Proper acoustics will let you use less powerful aids. Like the Target recommended receivers.

Peter H, Raudrive, MDB, OcramSagev, shootist

Thank you for your helpful posts about SoundRecover 2.
(My computer wasn’t working well yesterday: I’m trying to reach my Apple tech guy).

Does my audiogram look like I need frequency lowering?

In order to use a tv streamer, we would have to get a new tv first.
I am still in the beginning stages of gettin my aids adjusted, so I don’t know if it will be needed or not. Right now, I oould use it, but it’s step by step.

It’s too bad that Costco is a big-ish trip, but we’re lucky that it isn’t much further—or none at all.

Raudrive,

Thank you for weighing in! The simpler, the better.

Costco is worth the trip.

Good luck

Re moulds: No. I have similar loss, slightly worse hf roll off. I’ve recently changed from vented to power domes,The indication for which is related to feedback which is itself related to the necessary amplification.

Moulds and domes, With domes, the aids are topping up what you hear directly. Generally they are preferred where lower frequencies especially are reasonably well preserved, as in your case. The more occlusive the dome the less direct hearing there is, with vented domes being lest and moulds being the most occlusive. The more occlusive the dome the greater the amplification possible before feedback intervenes.

Re streaming: this is very device specific. I have Phonak aids + TV streamer. I stream everything and could not comfortably listen to TV without. Streaming phone calls has some issues that are specific to Phonak. Streaming is a key benefit and one that should be simply and effectively implemented. Why you are having issues is down to your brand of aids and the programming. Moulds or otherwise are not specifically relevant to streaming.

@PeterH said:

I am prepared to try some higher powered receivers, as the cost for them is low, and the slimtips work for me pretty well, but the sound currently is just thin, especially for music.

This statement falls in line with acoustics. I understand where you are going with the bigger receivers but acoustics will get the rich sound you are looking for in music.

FWIW

My vents act like a sound tunnel. Sounds goes right down the vent by passing the aid.

I use making tape to cover my vents. Everything sounds better.

@Raudrive said:

Looking at your audiogram I don’t see you needing this technology. Your high frequency hearing isn’t too bad.

At what level do you think freq lowering should be used?

Just wondering because the last time i saw my audi, she did the lowering. I think she went 1 click too far, because i hear sh when s was the sound occasionally….

Dan

@danhuddleston said:

At what level do you think freq lowering should be used?

That comment was directed at the OP.

Looking at your audiogram I can see using frequency lowering. You are correct about the SH sound when it should be a S. The frequency lowering settings are a touch to aggressive.

To answer your question. My opinion is when your upper frequencies are getting into the no response zone frequency lowering technology is a good thing. In this situation you might learn lesser powered hearing aids will suffice. No need to put gain in frequencies you can’t hear properly.