Jabra Pro 10 (or the new Pro 20) M&RIE (3rd mic)?

@drawde said:

I was told that the vent size is determined based on my audiogram to reduce occlusion.

I don’t know about Costco but through an audi, you can also have custom molds made by ReSound with Select-A-Vent. A large bore is made in the mold and then you get a tree of different interior diameter tube inserts that allows you (or your HCP) to play around with different vent sizes. If one really knows ahead of time what size vent is going to work best, going with the fixed diameter vent size is probably best because going with an extra large hole to take the inserts takes more supporting structure out of the mold, requires the mold to be a bit bigger than it might otherwise be with a small vent tube, etc.

I wrote in my other current thread about how I had a recurring intermittent buzzing in my left ear (only) with my Jabra Enhance Pro 20 with M&RIE, which was caused by the dome slipping out of position sometimes when I either moved my head or moved my jaw. My HCP replaced both of my domes with slightly larger domes that also have double cones, and that eliminated the issue.

Jim G

The molds I got from Costco for my Jabra’s were Select-A-Vent.

@d_Wooluf I got the VOCE and could not get it to pair with my Pro 20s or the Enhance Pro app. I got the device to go into LE Audio paring mode but it would not connect. It came with a USB device and a 2nd device that get’s it audio input from a 3.5mm audio analog source and neither would connect. I’m interested to see if anyone has gotten the ReSound TV Streamer+ to pair. It’s $300 which is pretty expensive, especially since the Streamer 2 does a pretty good job and can be had for $50-60 on eBay. Costco does not have the Streamer+ for sale on their website so I was wondering if the LE Audio/aura cast has been activated in the Pro 20s. It’s documented to support that but then again the documentation also says it supports the Tinnitus Sound Generator but it isn’t available in the Pro 20s.

Oh I wish I could confirm that myself, this could only happen if ReSound has disabled it just for Costco (Jabra) this would be a first! the previous model Costco simply refused to do it, Costco still refuses to have anything to do with the controller, so they shouldn’t have even tried to turn it on.

@drawde said:

TSG option is grayed out in the Costco configuration tool.

I take it you mean in the ReSound SmartFit software?

@drawde said:

I was wondering if the LE Audio/aura cast has been activated in the Pro 20s

If you watch the Andrew Bellavia video that’s just been posted, it shows a pair of Nexia aids connected directly to a Windows computer via LE Audio. The GN guys states quite specifically that LE Audio is live in the Nexia.

That doesn’t mean that they’re going to make it easy for you to connect to non-GN devices. The Resound app might be seeing the Voce just fine but ignoring.

@d_Wooluf said:

That doesn’t mean that they’re going to make it easy for you to connect to non-GN devices. The Resound app might be seeing the Voce just fine but ignoring.

GN has indicated that Auracast can replace induction loops and be used in other public areas so it should be compatible with any device adhering to the standard.

@philbob57 said:

The Jabra Pro 10 manual specifically mentions tinnitus control, so my guess is that it’s there.

It’s there, no guessing in this model.

@philbob57 said:

Perhaps the control is given to Costco’s staff audiologists,

Yep, and they have been instructed not to activate this feature in previous models, so it makes sense they won’t do it for the 20’s.

So it looks like we’ll have to wait until someone is going DIY this model, just to confirm what the situation is.

@philbob57 said:

but the TV Streamer + doesn’t seem to - it connects to the TV via analog or optical cable, not BT.

The TV Streamer+ is a source broadcasting to LE Audio-capable devices. You wouldn’t want a BT connection to the original audio source. Then there’d be wireless latency on both sides of the TV Streamer+, both upstream and downstream. The point of adding the TV Streamer+ as a WIRED connection is that it would make your OLD TV BT LE Audio-capable, so to speak. On a newer TV, whenever they come out, you wouldn’t need your TV Streamer+ if your new TV comes with BT LE Audio built in. So the TV Streamer+ is supposedly being sold as a bridging device between the “old” world of BT Classic and the future world of BT LE Audio…

@drawde said:

so it should be compatible with any device adhering to the standard.

It should. Assuming the phone is as well, that still leaves the issue of how you bring them together. See “Auracast Assistant” in the following schematic. https://www.bluetooth.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/How-It-Works_For-Download.png3

My thought was that the Jabra App will not be an even-handed assistant. Jabra want you to use their streamer. Simple as that. In the coming weeks/months hopefully device-agnostic assistants will appear and the shackles might be broken. I don’t know any of this for sure btw. Just a Googler.

At this point I think anything any answer you will get is a guess. I would imagine the streamer+ will be available everywhere really shortly.

I’m also guessing that that there will be many brands of optical, coax and headphone line in adapters in the next few months on. There is no doubt this is will be the new standard for a long while.

I had my hearing exam Tuesday and ordered my 20’s, I asked about the streamer and she said “oh, you don’t want that, you’ll be fine without it”. I don’t have a streamer on my current pair, but I decided that I want a remote mic and a streamer or 2 for my house.

@Semiretired said:

I asked about the streamer and she said “oh, you don’t want that, you’ll be fine without it”.

That’s not very smart on your HCP’s part. The value of a streamer is the sound is direct to your ears, cutting out any fall-off in audio quality with distance from TV speakers or sound degradations from room reverberations, etc. (Speech understanding falls off with distance from the sound source, in part because of reverberations from walls and objects in a room). Also, if you have a forced air heating/cooling system, overhead fans, refrigerator noises, other people in other rooms yakking or making noise, etc., you don’t have to have your TV sound degraded by that. And if other folks around you don’t want to hear what you’re watching on TV, you can stream the sound exclusively to your HA’s and turn off the broadcast TV sound entirely.

A mini-bonus feature of a streamer is that you can run to the frig for a snack or take a bathroom break and still very likely hear the TV sound quite well when you’re a room or two away. When I watch a sporting event and take such a break, I can hear announcer comments/theme music, etc., that cues me that it’s time to end my break and get back to the TV.

Jim Lewis: You make a reasonable case for the TV streamer. Yes, I agree the quality of the electronically streamed sound would be betetr than the quality of the sound from the TV speakers which is received by the HAs, converted to electronic signals, tarsnferred to the HA recievers, and again converted into speaker sound in your ear canals. But a few questions:

1. When the TV Streamer is connected and active, do most TVs also automatically (vs you doing anything manually) enable the Streamer AND regular TV speakers (for the family members watching with you who don’t have HAs)? And is your streamer volume affected by any volume changes THEY make to the TV speakers?

2. If a phone call comes in while using the TV Streamer, do the HAs automatically cut off the TV Streamer and handle the call instead? Or do you have to do anything manually?

I guess, what I am asking is how everyhting works when using a TV streamer, from when you first turn on the TV to when both you and the family are hearing your respective sounds.

I’m asking because a ReSound/Jabra Streamer, whether the TV Streamer 2 or the TV Streamer+, is quite expensive here in Canada, and surprise glitches or incompatibilities would be a pretty unwelcome issue.

Jim G

@JimGnitecki said:

When the TV Streamer is connected and active, do most TVs also automatically (vs you doing anything manually) enable the Streamer AND regular TV speakers (for the family members watching with you who don’t have HAs)?

I don’t know the answer to this because my TV is a pretty ancient Sony 1080p set (the wife refuses to upgrade!), and since we have a Yamaha amplifier/speaker system, the TV sound is set to exit the TV via a digital audio Toslink cable. It goes to a POWERED Toslink splitter. One digital audio output goes to the TV Streamer 2; the other output is the same cable that was originally plugged into the TV, goes to the Yamaha amplifier. So, YES, in this situation, the volume of each output is independently controllable by the TV Streamer/Smart 3D app/HA buttons and the Yamaha amplifier volume control. Does It Make Much Difference What Type of Audio Output Is Used for TV Streaming? - Analog vs. Coaxial vs. TOSLINK S/PDIF?

The TV Streamer 2 was originally something like $260 at Costco, September 2019. For me at the time, there was no foreseeable path to stream directly to my HAs without the ReSound streamer. Now that BT LE Audio offers the possibility of generic connectivity directly to TVs at some time in the future, one does have to calculate whether a Streamer expenditure is really worth it in the meantime or the best option is to wait for a cheaper universal streamer on Amazon, Best Buy, Walmart, etc., or just upgrade one’s TV when BT LE Audio comes built-in. I can’t see ReSound or any other HA OEM blocking direct streaming from an LE Audio-capable TV to LE Audio-capable HAs. That would really be iniquitous.