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My Phonak Sphere vs Virto, Paradise and Marvel

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They were painful at first but then the skin further then the second bend toughen up and it stopped being painful.

I think in the same way about skin sensitivity :slight_smile:

What I also consider to make new mold:

  1. EasyView Otoblock

  2. titanium FitGuide?

  3. more viscosity silicone for impression

  4. silicone filling with my jaw open (my EVERY earmolds in my life was maked with closed jaw)

  5. I have almost no problem with occlusion, even when I harder pressing my tragus (light pressing produces strong occlusion, harder pressing diminishes it to zero) when I not wear the , so consided no vent or <1mm diameter vent.

I wanted it also because in my city there are many cars with modified, uhmm, “silencers” which produces even 120 … I am scared by them.

My last impression didn’t event has second bend. At that point, I knew nothing about the standards for making earmolds.

@Bimodal_user said:

What I also consider to make new mold

@Bimodal_user
I also tried some experimenting with earmoulds and domes. Of course you’ll have to change and experiment settings afterwards also in the software.
Nowedays I got used to daily clean my ears in showering and afterwards drying (with the small blowing balloon for cleaning my tubes). So my canals are clean and free from smear etc. In former years I had some annoying wax problems which I tried to get rid of andsolve. This seemed to be for me the best solution. (Of course don’t try this out if you have perforated eardrums or infections)
To insert my soft silicone moulds I put a little bit of vaseline on them for easy and painless insertion which also works great for me.
You’ll have to find a cooperative if you want to play with the custom moulds as f.i. the https://www.phonak.com/content/dam/phonak/en/documents/evidence/poster_otoblock_crowhen.pdf6 Not many of them will be cooperative in what I also see as experiments.
And not every ear anatomically will allow all the many different possibilities you can think of or which are available.

For me I get the best impressions made if I relax my jaws a bit and open and close the space between my teeth for about one or two millimeters. But that will also have to do with your personal anatomy of your bordering tempero mandibular joint and TMJ- discus movement. I’ve untill now never tried to let them make with use of 3D scanning by the way is it was not available at most of the HAP’s I contacted.

@Emile030 said:

Of course you’ll have to change and experiment settings afterwards also in the software.

I received Noahlink Wireless 2 two days ago and begin to make small step-by-step adjustments :slight_smile:

Fortunately, I have never had any problems with excessive wax. Of course, I wash the outer part of my ear during my daily shower.

@Emile030 said:

For me I get the best impressions made if I relax my jaws a bit and open and close the space between my teeth for about one or two millimeters. But that will also have to do with your personal anatomy of your bordering tempero mandibular joint and TMJ- discus movement. I’ve untill now never tried to let them make with use of 3D scanning by the way is it was not available at most of the HAP’s I contacted.

Thanks for sharing your experiences. I regret that in 2011-12, I did not make a copy of my head and (1.5T) during evaluation. Probably, it is possible to make a 3D reconstruction of the whole ear canal from these scans. However, they do not take into account ear tissue dynamics and the ability to stretch, especially e.g. during jaw movement. This can probably only be assessed by the titanium FitGuide and traditional silicone impression (more silicone viscosity helps in that assessment).

I don’t know how reliable Otoscan is in taking into account soft tissue dynamics. However, I know that the device is terribly expensive (reportedly costing about the same as a car?) and therefore it doesn’t provide a quick return on that serious investment, especially in smaller practices.

In reply to @Emile030

@Emile030 said:

For me I get the best impressions made if I relax my jaws a bit and open and close the space between my teeth for about one or two millimeters. But that will also have to do with your personal anatomy of your bordering tempero mandibular joint and TMJ- discus movement.

I asses that just now by sticking my finger into my ear canal, just medially to tragus for sensing the caput of TMJ and found that 1-2mm between teeth didn’t make much difference in caput movement. However during making e.g “a”, “o” vowels, the movement is significant, it break the seal made by my finger.

Still content with my Spheres 90. Hearing in difficult conditions, noise around, is for me the best until now. Hearing voices as speech in populated area’s. Interesting.

And the streaming is also superb, fast and reliable. It may even be better then the reach of my Sony and Bose over the ears headphones, only the technique of noise reduction as used in headphones isn’t comparable.

I’dd maybe rather had the upcoming Virto as for sports a is better to handle than a . But as my Paradise 90 in comparance to my Virto P90 the in the ear will be worse, because of the localization of the antenna.

Next to that I seem to like my soft moulds better than the hard ones you’ll get in the Virto CIC. So maybe you should have both which of course is ridiculous.

And probably the Virto Spheres will come short before the next generation as it also happened with the Virto P90. They first came short before the Lumity’s and I wasn’t happy to see them so short after my Virto’s.

Now I’m playing a bit with the receiver and moulds. So I tried to get out the SDS6. After a first try because they must be removable without a pin I had to take a rest. I didn’t got them out although pulling hard. And on the internet aside of one just has to pull them out no further information.

So I’ll post here the comparison of the 3 pins and the new 8 pins 6.0 to show the difference. Bought some new spare receivers in case these would break at the end and to get informed and have a look at how they can be installed that theight. They came in today. But I don’t see any reason at the collar why the receiver can’t come out. Their is a nice small rubber as it seems at the collar I assume for the waterproof rating.
So next todo I’ll pull harder and will see what happens.

IMG_1100

So I tried removing the receivers today. Before that I inspected the two holes nearby. No pin visible but something what could be filter for the microphones.

So I tried to hold the receiver at the insertion with my nails to pull it out. Didn’t succeed!
Pulled harder, didn’t succeed, nail broke.

So I tried using a sharp thin knife instead of my nail and that initially did not succeed either. Wasn’t sure about cutting some thin wires in this way so stopped that.

Than I tried to pull the wire instead. My experience now don’t do that either. In my case the wire’s life ended. Something I felt broke.

So again with the knife. And this time I was lucky, could wring the receiver out.

So I wonder Phonak why was the pin version to remove the receiver not good enough. I don’t understand. But maybe the wire has to break as why else would you try to remove the receiver if it still functions?
Well in my case I wanted to try out different moulds… and I could change those things with the pin in my other Phonak HA’s ver easy all the time.

Anyhow at the cost of a few $ it seems possible to get the receivers out. The other side I could manage with the learned knife trick. Didn’t got it out by pulling either. To me it seems as if the black ring, probably for tight fitting, makes the exchange dificult. And that’s why the pins in the previous versions weren’t good enough anymore.

Maybe one of the pro’ s can give better advice how to change the receiver SDS6 in an easy way.

Picture of the inside connection on the HA and one of the thinned unlucky SDS connection.

20241004_144102
20241004_145106

@AlexE said:

My spheres have a pin and pushing that allowed me to change the receivers for ones with longer wires.

OMG thank you @AlexE :cry::cold_sweat: you saved me and my ’s I hope. Or is the pin now broken :flushed:
I believe you’re right…. But where did I read about exchanging the receivers without needing any tools?
About the same place as my Paradise 90’s!

IMG_1116
IMG_1117

Glad to be of help (and well worth it for the smart glasses updates).

I used a beefy safety pin to push the hearing aid pin. The only thing I noticed is that it worked better pushing from one side than the other. A paper clip may be a better idea so you don’t, cough, accidentally stab yourself, cough, in the finger :roll_eyes:.

Your comment made me laugh. I’ve used sewing needles to dig out the far too small in the Phonak Audeo Paradise P90R’s when the “frisby” container wouldn’t take them out. I’ve jabbed myself badly trying to fish them out.

Phonak has replaced the 4.0 receivers in my hearing aids with 5.0 receivers that are so much better.

@BarryH said:

So the pin can be pushed from either side of the aid?

Only until the first perceptible crackle, at least in Paradise. Then the pin comes out about a few milimeters.

That’s weird it’s a pull out and push in, that pin looks like a pin for the housing, it’s a long way from the receiver? but I did see this video.

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